When someone tells you they make artisan chocolate, what does that mean, exactly? Within the world of chocolate there are many steps, starting with the growing of the cacao trees that takes place in the rainforest or the plantation, and ending with the moment when you sit down to enjoy a bonbon or a good chocolate bar. We'll take a look at the process of chocolate production and explain the difference between the two principal streams in artisan chocolate making: the chocolate maker and the chocolatier.
Before we start, we'd like to take a moment to acknowledge the hard work of the cacao farmers, who plant, nurture, harvest, crack open, ferment and carefully dry the cacao beans. Without their care and dedication, it would be impossible to create this product that we love so much!


What does a bean-to-bar chocolate maker do?
"Bean-to-bar" refers to the process of converting cacao beans into chocolate.Obviously, all chocolate originally starts with the cacao bean, but the bean-to-bar movement specifically looks to select the finest strains of cacao in order to produce chocolate with unique flavour profiles.
The chocolate production process involves a lot of steps. Farmers plant cacao trees and when the fruit is ripe, they harvest it, cut it open and take out the seeds along with the mucilage, the sticky white substance surrounding the seeds. Seeds and mucilage ferment together for up to a week in carefully controlled conditions before being sun-dried and sent for processing.

The chocolate maker receives the dried cacao beans and sorts them to eliminate any that are mouldy or otherwise defective. They then roast the beans, "winnow" away the shells and grind the beans with stone wheels for anywhere between 24 to 72 hours to obtain a smooth paste. Some makers add additional cacao butter to the final product, or additives like lecithin to improve the texture and stability. You'll rarely see vanilla added to bean-to-bar chocolate, as its purpose in commercial chocolate is to mask off-flavours from poor-quality cacao.
Each step contributes to the quality of the chocolate, from the moment the seed is planted up until the final chocolate bar takes shape. Depending on the cacao variety, producers and chocolate makers may adjust the fermentation time, the drying, the roasting temperatures or the hours of conching. Two bean-to-bar companies can buy the same cacao and produce two fairly different final chocolate products, just as the flavour of the beans also depends on proper fermentation and drying protocols.
Larger chocolate makers purchase cacao beans wholesale. These low-cost beans are generally made with robust cacao varieties that are more resistant to pests but don't have as interesting of a flavour profile. Since the chocolate makers aren't in direct contact with the farmers, they also can't control the processes that occur before they buy the cacao. This means they often buy cacao that is poorly fermented, improperly dried or mouldy. To mask these defects, the cacao is toasted at high temperatures and mixed with ingredients like vanilla. If the cacao is really bad, they may "alkalanize" it. This process smooths out the flavour, but you lose all the unique tasting notes of the cacao fruit. By contrast, the bean-to-bar artisan looks for responsibly sourced cacao. Usually, there is a very transparent supply chain going all the way to the farmer, so the chocolate maker can be sure they are getting beans that were lovingly cared for by people earning a proper wage. The bean-to-bar maker then toasts the beans at a lower temperature in order to preserve the natural notes of the cacao fruit. This is why bean-to-bar chocolate can taste wildly different depending on where the cacao is from.
What does a chocolatier do?
A chocolatier (taken from the French) combines chocolate work with the skills of a pastry chef. Chocolatiers produce all kinds of different cacao-adjacent products, from bonbons to flavoured chocolate bars to dragées and chocolate figures.
Not only does the chocolatier need to understand the science of chocolate crystallization ("tempering") in order to master shine, texture and shelf life, they also need to have a solid grasp of certain components of pastry-making. Chocolatiers need to know how to emulsify a ganache and how to temper gianduja, and they need to know the different stages of sugar work in order to make fillings like caramel, pâte de fruits and marshmallow. In the case of decorated products like bonbons, chocolatiers also need to understand how to work with coloured cocoa butter in order to make pretty designs that are properly executed so that the cocoa butter shines and doesn't stick to the mould.

Behind each product is a mountain of science and technique that must be followed in order to obtain a smooth, silky texture and a balanced flavour profile. Since many of the finished products contain water, it's extremely important that the chocolatier understand how to balance the recipe and follow the proper steps so they can guarantee a certain shelf life without resorting to chemical preservatives. Chocolatiers use various techniques to create recipes with original textures and flavours, always striving to harmonize these flavours with the natural flavours of the chocolate itself.
What are the similarities between bean-to-bar makers and artisan chocolatiers?
Both the bean-to-bar maker and the artisan chocolatier work in small batches, dedicating passion and dedication to their projects.
Although not all chocolatiers buy high-quality chocolate, many do. In our case, we source tree-to-bar chocolate directly from the companies and cooperatives that run the plantations, and use local, seasonal ingredients for our fillings and inclusions in a never-ending quest to produce the best-quality products possible. We believe that by combining the concepts of rare cacao and artisan chocolatiering, we can obtain a unique and delicious product that brings out the best of both worlds.













